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Cathedrals, Moscow and Hidden Treasures of Moscow Sightseeing

BLAGOVESHCHENSKY SOBOR
Kremlin, Moscow, Russia

The Annunciation Cathedral, Moscow, a remarkable monument of Russian architecture linking three centuries of art and religion, was the private chapel of the royal family. Its foundations were laid in the 14th century, and in the 15th century a triangular brick church in the early Moscow style was erected on the site. Partially destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt during the reign of Ivan the Terrible, when six gilded cupolas were added. Czar Ivan would enter the church by the southeast-side porch entrance, built especially for him. He was married three times too many (for a total of six wives) and was therefore, under the bylaws of the Orthodox religion, not allowed to enter the church through its main entrance. The interior is decorated by brilliant frescoes painted in 1508 by the Russian artist Feodosy. The polished tiles of agate jasper covering the floor were a gift from the Shah of Persia. The fine icons of the second and third tiers were painted by some of Russia's greatest masters -- Andrei Rublyov, Theophanes the Greek, and Prokhor of Gorodets. Fri.-Wed. 10-5.

 

THE CATHEDRAL OF CHRIST THE SAVIOUR

15-17 Volhonka, Moscow, Russia

The temple was constructed on a vow given by sovereign Alexander I in gratitude for saving fatherland "from the Gaul invasion" (Napoleon). The temple was supposed to be built on the Vorobyovy hills under the project of architect Vitberg. Subsequently "because of political intrigues against the builder" the project of the cathedral and a place of construction were changed. The new place was chosen not too close to the Kremlin, so that the temple was dissonant to its ensemble, but at the same time so that a connection between the temple and the ancient structures of the Kremlin and the Red Square was felt.

September, 10, 1839 the laying of the cathdral in Russian-Byzantian style took place. It was constructed under the project of architect K.A.Ton, at the expense of the treasury with the attraction of people's donations. Two cemeteries and mammoth remnants were found during digging a foundation ditch. The temple was consecrated on April 10, 1883 during the days of crowning of the emperor Nikolay I. Side chapels were consecrated later: on June 12 the side-chapel of St.Nikolay Chudotvorets and on July, 8 - of St. Alexander Nevsky. K.A.Ton created a project of a five-dome temple with one big central and four angular turrets and 14 bells.

The banners and keys of conquered cities during the Napoleonic War were transferred to the temple. 640 candlesticks were built in a dome for illumination, and 600 more around the lattice on the choruses. The First electric street lamps in Moscow appeared on the square in front of the temple. The height of the temple was 103 m. On December 5, 1931 the temple was blown up. Subsequently the foundation ditch was used for the construction of swimming pool " Moscow ". In 1994. the pool was closed. In January, 1995, the laying of the revived temple took place. Now the construction is completed. The temple has an active museum, excursions are held and the viewing platform is open.

 

DONSKOY MONASTYR
1 Donskaya Pl., Moscow, Russia
Phone: 095/952-1646

The 16th-century Donskoy Monastery is a fascinating memorial to Russian architecture and art. From 1934 to 1992, a branch of the Shchusev Architecture Museum, keeping architectural details of churches, monasteries, and public buildings destroyed under the Soviets, was located -- more or less secretly -- inside its walls. Today the monastery is once again functioning as a religious institution, and the museum is slowly removing its exhibits from inside the churches. But the bits and pieces of demolished churches and monuments remain, forming a graveyard of destroyed architecture from Russia 's past. COST: Free. Daily 10-4. Metro: Shabolovskaya.

The monastery is situated in a secluded, wooded area in the southwest section of Moscow. You can reach it by taking the metro to the Shabolovskaya station. When you exit the metro, turn right and walk one block to Donskaya ulitsa. Turn right again and follow the street until you see the copper-topped domes of the monastery's churches above the trees to your left. Follow the path along the redbrick fortification wall until you reach the main entrance on the other side.

When you enter through the western gates, an icon of the Mother of the Don looks down on you from above the entrance to the imposing New Cathedral , Moscow. The brick cathedral was built in the late 17th century by Peter the Great's half-sister, Sophia. It has been under restoration for decades; services are held in the gallery surrounding the church, where the architectural exhibits were once housed. The smaller, Old Cathedral , Moscow, stands to the right of the New Cathedral. The attractive red church with white trim was built in 1591-93, during the reign of Boris Godunov. It is open for services.

One of the most fascinating sections of the monastery is its graveyard, where you will find many fine examples of memorial art. After the plague swept through Moscow in 1771, Catherine the Great forbade any more burials in the city center. The Donskoy Monastery, at that time on the city's outskirts, became a fashionable burial place for the well-to-do. The small Church of the Archangel built against the fortification wall on the far right was the private chapel and crypt of the prominent Golitsyn family (original owners of the Arkangelskoye estate). Many leading intellectuals, politicians, and aristocrats were buried here in the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries.

 

NOVODEVICHY MONASTYR
1 Novodevichy proyezd, Moscow, Russia
Phone: 095/246-8526; 095/246-2201; 095/246-7527 for the cemetery

Enclosed by a crenellated wall with 12 colorful battle towers, the monastery comprises several groups of buildings. Until the middle of the 20th century, when Moscow's population expanded rapidly, it effectively marked the city's southern edge. It was founded in 1524 by Czar Vasily III to commemorate Moscow's capture of Smolensk from Lithuania and was intended to serve not only as a religious institution but also as a defense fortification. Its location was strategically significant, as it stands on the road to Smolensk and Lithuania. Having been founded by the czar, it enjoyed an elevated position among the many monasteries and convents of Moscow and became a convent primarily for ladies of noble birth. Little remains of the original structure.

Among the first of the famous women to take the veil here was Irina, wife of the feebleminded Czar Fyodor and the sister of Boris Godunov. Opera fans may remember the story of Boris Godunov, the subject of a well-known work by Mussorgsky. Godunov was a powerful nobleman who exerted much influence over the czar. When Fyodor died, Godunov was the logical successor to the throne, but rather than proclaim himself czar, he followed his sister to Novodevichy. Biding his time, Godunov waited until the clergy and townspeople begged him to become czar. His election took place at the convent, inside the Cathedral of Smolensk. But his rule was ill-fated, touching off the Time of Troubles.

In the next century, Novodevichy became the residence of yet another royal: Sophia, the half-sister of Peter the Great, who ruled as his regent from 1682 through 1689, while he was still a boy. During this time there was much new construction at the monastery. The power-hungry Sophia, who did not wish to give up her position when the time came for Peter's rule, had to be deposed by him. He then kept her prisoner inside Novodevichy. Even that was not enough to restrain the ambitious sister, and from her cell at the convent she organized a revolt of the streltsy (Russian militia). The revolt was summarily put down, and to punish Sophia, Peter had the bodies of the dead streltsy hung up along the walls of the convent and outside Sophia's window.

You enter the convent through the arched passageway topped by the Preobrazhensky Tserkov ( Gate Church of the Transfiguration), widely considered one of the best examples of Moscow baroque. To your left as you enter is the ticket booth, where tickets are sold to the various exhibits housed in the monaster.

The predominant structure inside the monastery is the huge five-domed Sobor Smolenskoy Bogomateri (Cathedral of the Virgin of Smolensk), dedicated in 1525 and built by Alexei Fryazin. It may remind you of the Kremlin's Assumption Cathedral, Moscow, after which it was closely modeled. Inside, there is a spectacular iconostasis with 84 wooden columns and icons dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Also here are the tombs of Sophia and Yevdokiya. Simon Ushakov, a leader in 17th-century icon art, participated in the creation of the icons.

If a monastery can have a symbol other than an icon, then Novodevichy's would be the ornate belfry towering above its eastern wall. It rises 236 ft and consists of six ornately decorated tiers. The structure is topped by a gilded dome that can be seen from miles away.

 

ST. BASIL'S CATHEDRAL
Red Sq., Moscow, Russia
Phone: 095/298-3304

Although it is popularly known as St. Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, the proper name of this whimsical structure is Pokrovsky Sobor (Church of the Intercession). It was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible to celebrate his conquest of the Tatar city of Kazan on October 1, 1552, the day of the feast of the Intercession. The central chapel, which rises 107 ft, is surrounded by eight towerlike chapels linked by an elevated gallery. Each chapel is topped by an onion dome carved with its own distinct pattern and dedicated to a saint on whose day the Russian army won battles against the Tatars. The cathedral was built between 1555 and 1560 on the site of an earlier Trinity Church where the Holy Fool Vasily (Basil) had been buried in 1552. Although services are occasionally held here on church holidays, the museum is still open. After viewing the museum exhibits, you are free to wander through the cathedral. COST: $5. Wed.-Mon. 11-6. Closed 1st Mon. of month. Metro: Ploshchad Revolutsii.