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Moscow Restaurants Moscow restaurants, after as many ups and downs as a roller coaster, are looking as rosy as a flute of Crimean pink champagne. Moscow Restaurants of all classes and styles are opening every week with imported foreign chefs battling it out for Moscow 's upper and middle classes. Who knows? Next year, the town's new breed of ambitious chefs might be packing for the culinary equivalent of Siberia. However, if the early developments of the new millennium are any sign of what is ahead, then the vast and recent improvements on the dining scene should continue to garnish the often delicious experience of eating out in Moscow. Reserve plenty of time for your meal. In Russia dining out is an occasion, and Russians often make an evening (or an afternoon) out of going out to eat, especially at those Moscow showplaces replete with gilded cornices, hard-carved oak, and tinkling crystal.
AMERICAN BAR AND GRILL One of the original American bars and Moscow restaurants, the Bar and Grill goes for the pseudo Wild West look that is especially popular with anyone who has never been to the United States. Buffalo heads hang on walls beside leather saddles and old American road signs. The only really genuine American thing is the huge portions. Open 24 hours, the bar always seems to be busy with clients feeding on its popular chicken wings or downing numerous margaritas. Although the Mayakovsky branch is more popular, the newer, bigger Taganskaya restaurant has pool rooms, a larger summer garden, and bands regularly rocking its main room. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya. Other location: 59 Zemlyanoi Val, 095/912-3615. Metro: Taganskaya.
ARTISTICO Off Tverskaya ulitsa and opposite the MKhAT Theater, Artistico is one of the perfect Moscow restaurants for a pre- or post-theater dinner. Specializing in French and Mediterranean cuisine, the restaurant comes into its own in summer with its outdoor café. Its business lunch deal is one of the best in the city center. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Okhotny Ryad.
AZTECA One of the most popular Moscow restuarants, this noisy watering hole offers a satisfying Mexican menu of traditional favorites for Southwestern palates. Among the nachos, guacamole, and fajitas are several chicken dishes and a few exotic ones, such as roasted duck tacos. Pretty much any drink is served from the well-stocked bar, which makes a potent margarita. For a final flourish, flag down the roving compadre whose holster packs tequila bottles instead of six-shooters. The walls are covered in a bright Aztec motif, and the staff's mood matches the festive costumes. They have been known to break out in spontaneous dance while taking your order. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Novoslobodskaya.
BANGKOK Imported Thai chefs bring an authenticity to one of the few Thai Moscow restaurtants, this one long popular with politicians and expats. Unfortunately the food is sometimes the only authentic thing -- the Tom Yum Gung soup or spicy prawn soup is a must -- as the service is not always up to scratch and the decor somewhat gloomy. Keep in mind that there are four levels of hot spiciness -- four-alarmer to mild. The prices are high but the huge portions are big enough for two or three people. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Serpukhovskaya.
BAVARIUS Bavarius looks as if it has been transported straight from the Munich Oktoberfest. Oompah music plays in the background, waitresses wander dressed in dirndls and carrying large liter mugs, and the smell of sauerkraut lingers in the air. Whether you fancy some knockwurst or just want to try the myriad assortment of German and Czech beer, Bavarius is the place. Avoid the restaurant, though, and head through the arch to the left of the main entrance to a quiet courtyard, where the biggest beer garden in Moscow awaits. Food is served in both areas, but they take credit cards only in the main restaurant. MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya.
BELOYE SOLNTSE PUSTYNI Named after a legendary Soviet film, Beloye Solntse Pustyni (White Sun of the Desert) is a theme restaurant that specializes in delicious Uzbek food. The restaurant's sun-bleached walls instantly sweep you down to Central Asia. Inside the illusion continues: a diorama with a ship marooned in the desert, Uzbek maidens as waitresses, and intricately carved wooden doors. Make sure you try the salad bar's mouthwatering array of vegetables. The Dastarkhan, a set meal, overwhelms you with food -- unlimited access to the salad bar, numerous desserts, plov (a Central Asian rice pilaf), and a main course. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Kuznetsky most.
BOCHKA Popular among the after-rave set, Bochka is another of Moscow 's numerous open-around-the-clock restaurants. Opposite the Mezhdunarodnaya Hotel, it attracts its fair share of New Russians and businesspeople. If you're brave, turn up on Friday, when a giant spit is assembled for the roasting of wild game, including bulls and goats. If that doesn't appeal, the salads are worth a try. Open 24 hours daily, breakfast is served from 5 to 11 AM. AE, V. Metro: Ulitsa 1905 Goda.
CLUB T This phenomenally expensive French restaurant is part eatery, part antiques showroom. Small and intimate, the restaurant attracts a number of novy Russky (New Russians) who splurge on the food and the goods. The menu is typically French and showcases dishes with delicious sauces. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya or Belorusskaya.
CRAB HOUSE Just a few minutes' stroll from the Kremlin, this relatively new seafood restaurant is more upbeat and expensive than other American eateries in Moscow. The spacious, three-deck dining area has the feel of a stylish ocean liner, with a relaxing modern mix of wood and steel, blue marine walls, and exotic fish in aquariums. The waitstaff, clad in sailors' uniforms, is friendly and attentive. The restaurant has the largest oysters in town, flown in twice a week from the United States along with all the other seafood. The menu's showpiece is the positively decadent Imperial Platter, a mixture of stuffed lobster, baked oysters with black caviar, mussels, scallops with ham, and grilled vegetables. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Okhotny Ryad.
FIVE SPICES The interior of Five Spices may look like an Oriental house of ill repute, but the food is as classy as you can get. If you get bored with the Chinese dishes you can always try the Indian selections, as Five Spices has a good number of Tandoori dishes. For starters try the crispy lamb or the honey-glazed pork and then move on to any of the many prawn dishes. It's one of the few places where you can get tofu and a good range of vegetarian dishes. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Kropotkinskaya.
GENATSVALE VIP A sideshoot of its neighbor Genatsvale, the VIP branch is designed to look like an old Georgian country home. After entering through a tunnel of vine leaves, you are seated at oak tables in a somewhat Disney version of Georgia. The food is genuine, however, and you can draw further comfort from the fact that in the evening they bypass the horrible pop music of the ordinary Genatsvale for an authentic Georgian choir and traditional dancing. Make sure if you're in a group that you try the special kebab combination, with one of the various Georgian wines served in liter clay bottles. Prices are about 25 percent higher than at the ordinary Genatsvale, but still reasonable. V. Metro: Kropotkinskaya
HOLA MEXICO If you're in the mood for margaritas, big fajitas, and a loud mariachi band mixing Andean ditties with American pop hits, this is the place for you. You wouldn't want to go here when you are tired, but for high-energy party-goers on their way to the nearby Hungry Duck, this is one of the best Tex-Mex eateries in town. Large portions of nachos, a hill of beans, and chips smothered with cheeses and tomatoes might make it difficult to finish the meal you came for. There's plenty of dancing and a crowded bar of tequila-drinking clientele. A few tables are set aside in a quieter, dimly lit dining room for those looking to escape the spectacle. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Kuznetsky most.
IN TOWN Within a few months of opening, In Town had already impressed through its simple, exquisitely cooked Mediterranean cooking. The chef from San Remo excels in his homemade pasta, fish dishes, and especially tiramisu, rated by some as the best in Moscow. The decor's mix of Roman columns and chandeliers may look somewhat haphazard, but you hardly notice from the comfy armchairs and sofas. Service is excellent, and a knowledgeable sommelier is on hand to guide you through the extensive wine menu. DC, MC, V. Metro: Tverskaya.
KUMIR Michelin-star-winning chef Michel Troisgros chose Moscow to open his first franchise restaurant. The kitchen is under the command of a former student of Troisgros from Rouanne, France, chef Guillaume Joly. As would be expected the food is excellent French cuisine with no given for Russian tastes or small wallets. Housed in a prerevolutionary printer's building, service is immaculate and already popular among the elite. Expect to pay $100 plus for a basic meal. If that is too much try the lunch deal for a "mere" $65. There is also a more modest restaurant, Afisha, housed just below Kumir, serving a more moderately priced French dinner. MC, V. Metro: Pushkinskaya.
LA CIPOLLA D'ORO This modern and bright Italian eatery is definitely above the pizza level, as you'll see if you order their fine homemade pastas or opt for seafood selections. La Cipollo was named Russia 's best Italian restaurant by the Italian president a few years back. The menu changes completely every three months, but you can always count on a large number of imaginative and exotic seafood dishes, such as swordfish carpaccio. The portions are not as big as they could be, unfortunately. The restaurant has an impressive wine list whose prices reflect the good quality of the wines, which come direct from Italy. This is definitely a spot for a great family get-together. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Prospekt Mira.
MAMA ZOYA Along with Guriya, which is owned by the same Georgian family, Mama Zoya is a legendary bastion of good, cheap Georgian food. There is one big room as well as several private rooms here, none of which provide much defense against the incredibly loud accordion players. The restaurant has recently opened another branch on a boat moored on the Moskva River opposite Gorky Park. The design in both locales remains the same, with an eclectic and often kitschy feel. The only notable difference is that traditional Georgian dances seem to occur only on the boat. (Musicians patrol the dining room singing Russian and Georgian songs at both addresses, however.) You don't have to be a lover of Georgian music, though, just of tasty, hearty food. Vegetable dishes are especially impressive, including red lobio, a garlicky bean dish, and abzhapsandal, a plate of braised vegetables. The khachapuri, a traditional pancake filled with cheese, is always delicious. Many authentic Georgian wines are served and the service is speedy and good-humored. Lines on the weekends can be annoying so reserve ahead, or visit Guriya instead. No credit cards. Metro: Kropotkinskaya.
MARIO'S Mario's has always ranked as one of the top Italian restaurants in Moscow, but today some foodies say the two resident Italian chefs have turned it into the best restaurant in town. Using ingredients flown in twice a week from Italy they create consistently wonderful pasta dishes, such as a splendid tagliatelle (fettuccine) with cream, mushrooms, and fresh truffles. The carpaccio never fails. Whereas other Italian restaurants fall down on meat or fish dishes, Mario's is excellent whatever you choose. The restaurant also has one of the best (and most discreet) summer gardens in town, favored by many a Russian star and nouveau riche millionaire, bodyguards in tow. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Ulitsa 1905 Goda.
MOI DRUZYA This little-known Italian restaurant close to Belorussky railway station is a budgeter's delight with its cheap, good quality Italian fare. It's built on two floors, but it's best to stick to the informal downstairs, where you can peruse the enormous menu of pastas, pizzas, and main courses. All the pastas are top-notch, although the service is usually the reverse. MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya or Belorusskaya.
PATIO PIZZA An airy place to find pizza bliss, this cheerful restaurant has a huge back room with glass ceiling and walls, so the sun pours in all day. The original is a stone's throw from the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts; a newer branch is in the front section of the Intourist Hotel at the tip of Tverskaya ulitsa. Another branch sits opposite the statue of Mayakovsky on Triumfalnaya Ploshchad and more are popping up all over town. The menu runs the gamut of pizzas, with a real salad bar and Italian entrées. The pizza has a thin and dusty crust, and daily specials include such dishes as lasagna and cannelloni. Tables are comfortably spaced, topped with checkerboard tablecloths. Pop music plays softly, and the rooms are always filled with a pleasantly bustling crowd. Metro: Kropotkinskaya. Other locations: 3 Tverskaya ul., 2929-0891. Metro: Okhotny Ryad; 68/10 Leninsky prospekt, 095/930-5666. Metro: Universitet; 2 Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul., 095/930-0815. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya.
RYTZARSKY KLUB Located under the ski jump at the Sparrow Hills, the restaurant has one of the best views in the city, since it overlooks most of Moscow from its highest geographical point. In summer your best choice is to sit at the nice bare wood balcony (even though you may not be able to see some Moscow landmarks because of intruding tall trees). Rytzarsky Klub, which means the "Knight Club," was designed to imitate the style of the Middle Ages, with knight paraphernalia on display throughout the rooms. The Georgian owner is even a member of the St. Constantin Order for his support of the arts, and he's made the restaurant's White Room into an elegant art gallery promoting young artists. As for the hearty Georgian food, start with the eggplant stuffed with walnuts. For the main course try the kuchmachi, a dish made from cow tongue, heart, and liver. None of the staff speaks English. MC, V. Metro: Leninsky Prospekt or Universitet.
SCANDINAVIA Whereas many restaurants in Moscow seem to have gone for glitz, the owners of Scandinavia have opted for cozy and comforting. This is one of the most serene dining rooms in the city: burnt-orange walls with blue-green trim, comfortable wooden chairs, upholstered benches, and arrangements of dried flowers on deep window ledges all combine to make you feel as if you're in a Swedish country manor. Three Swedish chefs are in charge of the menu, resulting in a mixture of Scandinavian, modern European, and American cuisines. If you're out for a purely Scandinavian selection, try the smoked reindeer with a drop of aquavit, a traditional herbal spirit. Try washing it down with the tasty Swedish beer Pripps. Despite being just a few yards away from the bustle of Tverskaya ulitsa, Scandinavia's balcony and summer beer garden are the most tranquil and popular places for summer outdoor dining in town. A special, cheaper summer menu for the café provides plenty of choices for those on a tighter budget. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Pushkinskaya.
SIRENA There are probably as many live fish as dead denizens of the deep at this seafood showplace, a longtime favorite of the famous, including Sting and Liza Minnelli. One room has a glass floor beneath which huge sturgeon squirm; in another, aquariums surround you with numerous fish who watch you eat their brethren. Hey, doesn't anybody know that fish have feelings, too? After entering via the stern of a ship, you won't be surprised to see the waiters dressed like sailors. The wide array of fish main courses, like the mixed seafood in parchment, rarely disappoints (unlike the appetizers), but Sirena is still far too expensive. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Sukharevskaya.
SPAGO No, this isn't related to the famed Los Angeles outlet, but is a sturdily good Italian eatery, a few minutes away from Lubyanka. Everything is imported directly from Italy, including the chef -- and it looks as if he's brought Grandma's tiramisu with him. Opt for the gnocchi with gorgonzola and nut sauce or the duck breast in wine sauce. The yellow walls and blue ceiling soothe and relax you through dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Lubyanka.
ST. MICHEL You'll recognize St. Michel by the number of black jeeps and BMWs outside the restaurant and the host of bodyguards waiting just inside the lobby. This stylish French restaurant, handily situated on Tverskaya ulitsa, has become extremely fashionable among the "oligarchs," a number of extremely rich businesspeople who control vast swathes of Russian industry. The food is pretty good as well, with a swanky wine collection, cigars, and a nice outdoor barbecue area. Ignore the garish sign outside -- the interior is actually much more tasteful. Reservations essential. AE, DC, V. Metro: Okhotny Ryad.
STARLITE DINERS Open round-the-clock, these two diners are identical to those back in the United States -- same brightly lighted 1950s design, large portions, and great value for the price. In Moscow these spots are popular options for late workers, exhausted early morning party-goers, and old friends getting together for a weekend brunch. It's always full of boisterous first-timers to Russia and expats looking for a taste of home. The Mayakovskaya locale is busier because of its center-city location and its secluded summertime patio. Waiters are young and friendly, speak English, and serve fast. AE, MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya. Other location: 9 Korovy Val, 095/959-8919. AE, MC, V. Metro: Oktyabrskaya.
TAMERLAINE For a marauding tyrant, Tamerlaine has remarkably good taste in food and decor. This superb Mongolian-style restaurant is a tranquilly lit, elegant place perfect for a business lunch. Two Kazakh chefs wield enormous chopsticks as they man the giant circular hot plate. You choose the ingredients -- laid out before you -- and the chefs stir-fry them in a couple of minutes. Set menus are provided to help you choose from the panoply of meats, fresh vegetables, and spices, or you can create your own potpourri. The business lunch deal between noon and 2 PM is a good bargain. DC, MC, V. Metro: Kropotkinskaya or Park Kultury.
TIBET KITCHEN The name may be slightly more prosaic than its competitor Tibet Himalaya, but this restaurant follows Himalaya 's lead with an exceedingly high standard of reasonably priced food. A huge picture of the Dalai Lama's former palace in Lhasa commands the room, and dolls dressed in costumes made by Tibetan monks sit serenely in little cubbyholes. Located a few minutes from the Kremlin, Tibet Kitchen offers spiced-up Tibetan cuisine. If you want to try something more traditional, order the Tsam-Thuk, a thick soup made from barley and speckled with slivers of meat and mushrooms. The restaurant is particularly appealing to vegetarians and offers a large number of cheap dishes like the Soen Labuk salad, a shredded dyed pink radish with a touch of vinegar. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Okhotny Ryad or Teatralnaya.
U PIROSMANI Named after the Georgian artist Niko Pirosmani, this popular restaurant is near the Novodevichy Monastery and was once visited by President Bill Clinton. Its rustic interior with whitewashed walls and wood-paneled ceilings re-creates the aura of an artist's studio. Copies of Pirosmani's naive art decorate the walls. Make sure you get to sit by the window in the main hall or on the balcony so you can enjoy beautiful views of the 16th-century monastery across the pond from the restaurant. The menu reads like a Georgian cookbook. Order a bottle of Georgian wine to accompany your meal. Although the restaurant is quite popular and often crowded, service is very good. MC, V. Metro: Sportivnaya.
ULEI Fusion has come to Russia via veteran Moscow chef Isaac Correa. Since the opening of Ulei ("Hive"), Moscovite palates have been treated to a menu virtually unique in Russia. The American chef has created his own more natural, harmonic version of fusion called "d'fusion," combining Asian, European, and Japanese elements. The results, such as in the Chilean sea bass with warm papaya salad and wilted spinach, are intriguing and nearly always wonderful. Ulei frequently changes its menu and is constantly innovating. If the idea of fusion scares you off, try their Sunday brunch for $35. The restaurant also has its own sushi school for those who want to go a bit deeper. AE, DC, MC, V. Metro: Mayakovskaya.
YAKITORIA A sushi revolution has taken place in Moscow with a plethora of restaurants serving sushi appearing in the matter of a few months. Many do not deserve to be called sushi places, but Yakitoria has proved the most reliable for cheap, good quality sushi. The food may not be the most genuine article, but for that in Moscow you can expect to pay bank-breaking prices. At Yakitoria the service is quick, the ingredients fresh, and the menu comprehensive. Expanding quickly, there are now very popular branches opposite the Marriott Royal hotel and on Novy Arbat. Lines are common so book in advance. MC, V. Metro: Belorusskaya. |
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